{"id":5041,"date":"2017-07-05T09:18:59","date_gmt":"2017-07-05T07:18:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/kpnet.dk\/blogs\/?p=5041"},"modified":"2017-08-09T11:40:47","modified_gmt":"2017-08-09T09:40:47","slug":"en-rejseberetning-af-ron-ridenour-sojurn-in-spain-med-collager-af-jette-salling-1-afsnit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kpnet.dk\/blogs\/ron-ridenour\/en-rejseberetning-af-ron-ridenour-sojurn-in-spain-med-collager-af-jette-salling-1-afsnit","title":{"rendered":"En rejseberetning af Ron Ridenour: “Sojurn in Spain” – Med Collager af Jette Salling – 1. afsnit"},"content":{"rendered":"

KPnetBlogs bringer en sp\u00e6ndende rejseberetning som sommerf\u00f8ljeton\u00a0 i 7 dele skrevet af\u00a0 Ron Ridenour med collager af Jette Salling. De to har bes\u00f8gt Spanien og videregiver her tanker og indtryk fra landet – om politikken, historien, naturen og menneskene de har m\u00f8dt. Teksten er p\u00e5 engelsk
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

Her f\u00f8lger 1. afsnit samt en introduktion (ogs\u00e5 oversat til dansk).
\n<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Cover: <\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span>Heidelbergensis people likeness 400,000 year ago, Picasso\u2019s Guernica massacre, Viscaya Bridge, Cabo de Gata cliffs into sea, Jette and Ron ready to swim, Spanish wine grapes, Cervantes Don Quixote, student general strike.<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

By Ron Ridenour
\nCollages by Jette Salling<\/b><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Table of Contents<\/b><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Introduction
\n1. Costa del Sol, Hating America, Muslims, Corruption, Dolmens\u2014page 2
\n2. Art, war and peace –page 11
\n3. Almer\u00eda and Podemos –page 15
\n4. Barcelona, Catalonia sovereignty, and civil war –page 20
\n5. Basque Country: Bilbao, San Sebastian, Gernika –page 24
\n6. Atapuerca UNESCO world heritage site: Who are we? –page 32
\n7. Madrid and conclusion –page 37<\/p>\n

Fra introduktionen<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mens vi n\u00f8d den helsebringende sol langt fra det gr\u00e5 Danmark iagttog min k\u00e6reste Jette og jeg vigtige udviklinger, mens vi rejste gennem Spanien i \u00e5rets to f\u00f8rste m\u00e5neder.<\/p>\n

Vi s\u00e5 gamle gravsteder og geologiske ejendommeligheder og besteg bjerge hvor vi indsnusede den rige flora. Vi boede i syd, \u00f8st og nord fra Fuengirola, Mijas, Antequera, Granada, M\u00e1laga (Picasso\u2019s hjemby) til Almer\u00eda, Barcelona, Bilbao, San Sebastian, Guernica, Burgos-Atapuerca og Madrid.<\/p>\n

Vi talte med folk fra ETA (Euskadi Ta Askatasuna\/Basque Homeland and Freedom) netop da organisationen nedlagde v\u00e5bnene 58 \u00e5r efter dens dannelse. Tre katalonske politiske ledere blev d\u00f8mt for ulydighed mod den spanske forfatning, da de kaldte en symbolsk folkeafstemning for retf\u00e6rdig. Dommerne advarede ogs\u00e5 den nye regionale regering imod en s\u00e5dan folkeafstemning. Podemos \u2013 der pludselig var det trediest\u00f8rste politiske parti med 21 % af stemmerne \u2013 dukkede op fra den interne debat med en ledelse der pegede i reformistisk retning.<\/p>\n

Vi fik ogs\u00e5 viden om de forbl\u00f8ffende videnskabelige opdagelser omkring Europas tidligst identificerede folk, Homo antecessor der er fundet ved Sierra de Atapuerca og om de unikke Homo heidelbergensis, og en 1,3 millioner \u00e5r gammel k\u00e6be fra et endnu ikke identificeret individ. Mange af disse fossiler er offentligt tilg\u00e6ngelige i det n\u00e6rliggende Museum for menneskelig udvikling.<\/p>\n

Introduction<\/strong><\/p>\n

Concomitant with soaking in the healing sun far from grey Denmark, my sweetheart Jette and I witnessed important developments as we traveled through Spain the first two months of 2017.<\/p>\n

We observed ancient grave sites and geological peculiarities, and hiked mountains inhaling the rich botany. We lived in or visited the south, east and north from Fuengirola, Mijas, Antequera, Granada, M\u00e1laga (Picasso\u2019s hometown) to Almer\u00eda, Barcelona, Bilbao, San Sebastian, Guernica, Burgos-Atapuerca, and Madrid.<\/p>\n

We spoke with people involved in the ETA (Euskadi Ta Askatasuna\/Basque Homeland and Freedom) as it was surrendering its weapons 58 years after its formation. Three Catalonia\u2019s political leaders were sentenced for disobeying Spain\u2019s constitution by calling for a symbolic referendum just. The judges also warned the new Catalonian regional government against any such referendum. Podemos\u2014suddenly the third largest political party with 21% of vote\u2014emerged from internal debate with a united leadership pointing in a reformist direction.<\/p>\n

Moreover, we learned of amazing scientific discoveries of Europe\u2019s earliest identified people, Homo antecessor (Explorer), found at Sierra de Atapuerca. Fossils were also found of the uniquely caring Homo heidelbergensis, and a 1.3 million year-old jawbone of an as yet unidentified hominid. Many of these fossils are on public display in the nearby Burgos Museum of Human Evolution.<\/p>\n

1. Costa del Sol, Hating America, Muslims, Corruption, Dolmens<\/b><\/p>\n

Randy Shields, a witty, searing Philadelphia writer and musician, and I share a hatred for the United States of America. We hate its self-perceived \u201cexceptionalism\u201d, which it uses as an excuse to lucratively invade half the world\u2019s countries, murdering millions of people and torturing hundreds of thousands.(1)<\/p>\n

“I’m gonna take 60 days off from hating America to enjoy the sun in Spain and do my best to avoid writing about any of it.\u201d Randy: \u201cTrip to Spain sounds great but it is possible to hate America from anywhere!\u201d<\/p>\n

Randy was right, of course.\u00a0I couldn\u2019t avoid hating USamerica and neither could I, as this piece proves, avoid writing about it\u2014a poor substitute for effectively acting to stop its killing machine.<\/p>\n

The evening after arriving at our pension-affordable rental apartment in Fuengirola, we watched a lively Flamenco dance group while eating a marvelous seafood dinner at a popular restaurant. Next morning, we ate breakfast on our terrace facing the Sohail Castle (meaning \u201cstar\u201d in Arabic) so named by the Caliphate of C\u00f3rdaba when Arabs dominated Andalusia. This watchtower-fort-castle was built on the hill in the 11th<\/sup> century. We took a relaxing swim in the wonderfully clear blue Mediterranean Sea just meters away. But alas! Already in the evening did the monster appear!<\/p>\n

We heard voices over loud speakers and peered down on the street from our apartment building. Several police in a handful of vehicles had blocked an entrance to a highway. They were looking inside cars, waving some on or stopping some, and questioning and searching those with Arabic features. I went down to the street and engaged two motorcycle policemen in a dialogue.<\/p>\n

Why this checkpoint? Nothing special. Just routine check for terrorists. Why are they all Arabic looking? There are Arabic terrorists in Europe. Who started the terrorism? Silence. A lecture followed outlining that Spain has been an active part of the US\u2019s \u201cCoalition of the willing\u201d in invading and murdering Afghans, Iraqis, Libyans, destroying several Arabic-Muslim countries. The cops kick-started their machines and drove off to stop a car on the other side of the road. A family of Arabic-looking people got out of the car and the man was interrogated. I walked over to them as the police pulled away. They told me they were asked why they were here. They were on vacation from Morocco and were baffled by all the questioning. I referred them, as I had the police, to information you can read here. (2)<\/p>\n

We saw these routine check-points elsewhere. At large populated locations in Barcelona and Madrid combat-clothed police, sometimes wearing masks, stood with machine guns in hands. OK, Spain was one of the first European nations to be hit by terrorists. They killed 192 people and injured some 2000 by exploding a commuter train in Madrid on March 11, 2004. Spain had followed the United States into illegal, terror wars against Afghanistan and Iraq using the attacks of 9\/11 as an excuse. Spanish officials said the train attack was directed by an al-Qaeda-inspired terrorist cell. Three days later the warring Jos\u00e9 Mar\u00eda Aznar government lost the elections. There have been threats by other terrorists since then but no real damage. A couple hundred suspected would-be terrorists have been arrested in the last dozen years.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Police checkpoint in front of our apartment-hotel building across the street from the Sohail Castle.<\/span><\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

By contrast, thousands and even millions of Spaniards protest wars and inhumane treatment of refugees from the wars. Specific days for peace are also celebrated. One such march took place the same week we arrived in neighboring Benalm\u00e1dena, a beach town the same size as Fuengirola, 70,000. 785 primary and secondary students of Jacaranda school, dressed in t-shirts with a peace design they chose\u2014supported by parents, teachers, the mayor and town council\u2014marched from the school to the main square. They read a manifest for peace, sang and danced, and released several peace doves. The town\u2019s educational councilor praised the school for its 28th<\/sup> march, \u201cfor its values of peace and solidarity.\u201d<\/p>\n

I fumed at the war-makers some days but Jette pointed to the peace-makers. We relaxed during nearly daily walks through lovely towns. Like 70 million other tourist\/vacationers, we marveled at the fabulous art works, the colorful nature, and relished the food, especially the abundant fresh seafood. Spain has 46 million citizens and permanent residents with the world\u2019s largest numbers of restaurants and bars per inhabitant. Many Spaniards spend more time and income eating out than most other peoples. The free or cheaply prized tapas<\/i> with drinks are also an attraction for travelers.<\/p>\n

The few refugees, about 6000, however, have no resources to eat out. And the thoroughly corrupt People\u2019s Party (PP) government of Mariano Rajoy Brey has declined to take on the 15,000 refugees from Greece and Italy that was agreed upon in 2015 as part of EU\u2019s quota allotment.<\/p>\n

We spent time on the sandy beaches, naturally, swimming and looking for the fascinating sea shells that seemed designed for beauty and utility. Many are sturdy and large enough to hold ceviche<\/i> I make. I even caught a sea- bass casting from the beach, which is a favorite pastime and source of food for many Spaniards.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Me with my big catch on our balcony. The Sohail Castle tower is behind, and beyond the ever-so-blue Mediterranean.<\/em> <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

In Fuengirola, there are three archeological sites. (3) We saw where Romans in the Iron Age salted fish for consumption and export. In the same area close to the sea they made pottery and took their famous baths in tubs with cold, lukewarm, and hot temperatures. Wealthier bathers were massaged by their slaves. There were areas for concerts, a library and gardens. The thermal baths were owned by the state, which charged a small fee; children were admitted free. There were periods of unisex nudity but prudish Catholics outlawed this in the 3rd<\/sup> century AD by banning women from the baths.<\/p>\n

Across the street from our apartment, on one side of Sohail Castle remains of Phoenician and Roman settlements from between 3000 and 2000 years ago have been uncovered. Many fossils were found but the dig stops where a manor stands complete with swimming pool and carports surrounded by a high wall and barbed wire. Why would this be here at an archeological park?<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/span>Private mansion, Villa Valsurbio, wall on the right stops the scientific dig. The ancient Moor castle is on top of the hill.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

I asked several workers and pedestrians in the area about this. Most of them knew it had to do with Franco\u2019s time. One told me, \u201cThe rich are the power not the law\u201d. But unlike in most of the centuries of regular corruption\u2014from the early kings, through colonization, the Franco period, and up to recently\u2014there is action against it.<\/p>\n

Spain has a long history of corruption\u2014defined as managing public resources for private interests, and includes bribery. The English expression \u201cSpanish practices\u201d stems from a long history of \u201cSpanish duplicity\u201d. Most dishonest politicians, civil servants, and public and private functionaries get away with it. But since the economic crises with a 25% loss of employment, many people are acting. Activist protestors have been effective, and a former civil servant whistle-blower, Ana Garrido has revealed much corruption, which the mass media is finally covering.<\/p>\n

Since 2010 there have been regular revelations of official corruption by top politicians especially of the People\u2019s Party, including the president of Madrid region and ministers. The PSOE (Spanish Socialist Workers Party), and many businessmen have also been caught in corruption cases: kickbacks, bribes, tax fraud, public funding for work not performed or overpriced. Just between mid-2015 and the end of 2016, 1,700 people faced prosecution for corruption. Although 1000 town councils of the 8,100 in Spain have initiated corruption investigations, only 20 persons have been sentenced to prison. Despite transparency campaigns and promises, fiscal laxity remains endemic. Some investigators, for instance, are paid as much as 100,000 Euros annually, enough to look the other way.<\/p>\n

Bankia, a major bank, is one of many cases unfolding. Twenty seven leading bankers and politicians are on trial for various acts of corruption and bribery. Another case, G\u00fcrtel network, involves 200 businessmen and public officials, including three former PP treasurers, charged with such crimes. The Prime Minister is called to testify in this case. The key man in the billion dollar scandal is known as Don Vito from the \u201cGodfather\u201d\u2014construction capitalist Francisco Correa.<\/p>\n

Then there is the infamous case of the king\u2019s brother-in-law, Inaki Urdangarin. He was sentenced to six years and three months in prison while we were there. He was found guilty of masterminding a scheme for the N\u00f3os Institute to obtain public contracts without bidding, in which no work was performed or done so at overpriced costs. He is also guilty of diverting public funds for personal profit. His wife, Cristina de Borb\u00f3n, the former King Juan Carlos\u2019 daughter, was fined 265,088 Euros for tax fraud complicity. Somehow, she was not found guilty of any crimes. This is the first time any member of the royal family has been so judged. King Juan Carlos stepped down in 2014 when the case began. His son Felipe took his place. Urdangarin, a former handball star player, appealed the sentence and is free on bail in Switzerland.<\/p>\n

Due to these exposures the PP has ruled without a majority vote for the past two years. Its coalition government garnered only 33% in the 2016 election; 28% in 2015, compared with 44% in 2011. But the PSOE is not as favored as it once was either, winning only 22.6% in the 2016 elections compared with 44% in 2008. This has caused the national government, and many regional ones, to attempt to appease the people by ascribing to transparency. City councils are accepting complaints of all sorts and investigating them. Results of the investigations are publicized. When I found out about this, I decided to look into the private mansion background and make a complaint.<\/p>\n

Dictator Francisco Franco gave Jos\u00e9 Antonio Gir\u00f3n de Velasco permission to build this mansion (Villa Valsurbio). Gir\u00f3n had faithfully served Franco in his illegal and brutal war against the democratically elected Republican government. He served as an officer in the 1936-39 civil war, and Franco made him his Minister of Labor, 1941-57.<\/p>\n

Gir\u00f3n was a fanatic fascist. After moving into the mansion at the Sohail Castle, he started a tourist business and became known as \u201cel le\u00f3n [lion] de Fuengirola\u201d. Gir\u00f3n participated in the attempted coup of the democratic government in 1981. It failed, in part, because King Juan Carlos opposed it.<\/p>\n

In my research, I found that Fuengirola had undergone an environmental impact study in 2008. The investigators had, in fact, pointed out that Villa Valsurbio is not in the cultural interests with the park or the archeological diggings. The study reports that \u201cthe rest of the surroundings [the private property] should be free space used by the public and the green zone.\u201d I tried to find the investigators but they no longer held jobs or telephone numbers that they had in 2008. Nor could I find any response to the study by local authorities.<\/p>\n

Gir\u00f3n died in 1995 and his family sold the house to another rich and politically connected man from out of town. I did not discover details of the current owner but I went to town hall to ask Mayor Ana Mula why the public park and archeological site is partially occupied by private property. I pointed out in my petition that her predecessor, Esperanza O\u00f1a, also of PP, had posted a plaque at the entrance of the park in 2002 dedicating it to the public in the name of a virgin. (I am uncertain if the virgin was meant to be the mother of Jesus Christ or another, because in the Spanish-dominated countries there are many virgins, officially speaking.)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Fascists nostalgic for Franco, who died three weeks before this1975 photograph was taken. Gir\u00f3n is the leading figure sitting. We found this photo book, \u201cThe Transition\u201d, published by the newspaper \u201cEl Pa\u00eds\u201d, at a caf\u00e9 in Barcelona.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

When I presented my complaint to city hall workers heads rose from computers. I filled out the transparency complaint form. I was assured that it would be answered. To date, I have no word from the mayor.<\/p>\n

From our base in Fuengirola, we took day trips to the nearby colorful mountain town Mijas, the majestic Granada, Picasso\u2019s M\u00e1laga and Antequera.<\/p>\n

UNESCO has awarded Spain with 45 World Heritage Sites, the third highest number after Italy (51) and China (50). As it turned out we saw four of them: Granada\u2019s Alhambra palace and Alcazaba fortress, Antequera\u2019s dolmens, Atapuerca Mountains with its archeological sites and the unique Vizcaya Bridge in Bilbao.<\/p>\n

Arab rulers held their capital seat in Granada during their reign in Andalusia. While the gardens and water ways are impressive and useful, the over-whelming buildings basically turn me off, as do most grandiose structures (pyramids, slaughter-house coliseums, gigantic city halls, manors, castles). They reek of bloody power hungry elitists who exploit workers and force slaves to build their symbols of domination. Private property is, in reality, the root of most of our man-made evils.<\/p>\n

\u201cMuch of our present difficulty has been driven by the way humans have come to relate to space, objects and consistent imaginings we have about the world: we have come to think of these things as property. There is no natural reason for this.\u00a0 Property is purely a construct of the imagination and has no basis in the physical or living order,\u201d <\/i>wrote biologist and psychologist James Keye.<\/a><\/p>\n

In contrast, I was quite taken by the dolmen gravesites in Antequera, or \u201cAntikaria\u201d\u2014Old City in the language of Romans who settled in the area at the end of the early Iron Age. It was so named because of the ancient richness of the dolmens.<\/p>\n

Three dolmens were built between 7000 and 5000 years ago for burials of leading citizen. More cadavers were also buried over many centuries. The structures are skillfully built for longevity. Much of the original stones remain today, both the interior structure as well as the mounds that cover them. The tombs, however, are not pompous, and everyone has used them to remember the dead and for collective religious ceremonies, even today. These unique monoliths were the first forms of monumental stone architecture in European pre-history.<\/p>\n

The most fascinating is the Menga dolmen. It is a particular geographic landmark aligned with La Pe\u00f1a de los Enamorados <\/i>(Lovers\u2019 Rock). The long entrance faces this natural hilly formation as if to identify with it, to honor the apparent \u201csleeping face\u201d, and as such it does not directly face the rising sun as was tradition for nearly all dolmen-makers.<\/p>\n

We can\u2019t know what the early Neolithic farmers and sheepherders called the hill, but honor it they did by aligning the five-chamber enclosure to face it. Menga\u2019s construction is considered as significant as Stonehenge. Modern craftsmen are impressed by the 27.5-meter long, 3.5-meter high, 6-meter wide tomb with a 19.5-meter deep well where tools used to build it were found.<\/p>\n

In medieval times, this 874-meter high hill was known as \u201cThe Indian of Antequera\u201d. It was later given the name \u201cLovers Rock\u201d because, as legend has it, a Christian woman and a Moor man fell in love. Multi-cultural love was forbidden so they fled to the hill. The woman\u2019s father sent soldiers to capture them. As the soldiers approached, the loving pair threw themselves to their death.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Me with the museum director at the Menga dolmen above, which faces the sleeping face on Lovers Rock below.<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Notes:<\/b><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

(1) See Randy\u2019s piece: <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>http:\/\/www.counterpunch.org\/2012\/07\/20\/when-i-started-hating-america\/<\/a>
\nRegarding American Exceptionalism, John Pilger referred to President Barak Obama\u2019s exclamation: \u201cI believe in American exceptionalism with every fiber of my being\u201d. This is what Pilger meant when he wrote, \u201cAmerican political life is a cultish extremism that approaches fascism.\u201d See his piece, \u201cThe Issue is not Trump, it is us\u201d https:\/\/www.counterpunch.org\/2017\/01\/17\/the-issue-is-not-trump-it-is-us\/<\/a> <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

(2<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>) \u201cHow many Muslim countries has the U.S. bombed or occupied since 1980?\u201d wrote Glenn Greenwald, November 6, 2014.Greenwald cited former army colonel Andrew Bacevich, who wrote that Syria had become at least the 14<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>th<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/sup><\/span> country in the Islamic world that US forces had invaded, occupied and\/or bombed, and in which US forces killed and\/or were killed. And that was just since 1980. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>https:\/\/www.washingtonpost.com\/opinions\/even-if-we-defeat-the-islamic-state-well-still-lose-the-bigger-war\/2014\/10\/03\/e8c0585e-4353-11e4-b47c-f5889e061e5f_story.html?utm_term=.b8ff8d252546<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Iran (1980, 1987-1988), Libya (1981, 1986, 1989, 2011), Lebanon (1983), Kuwait (1991), Iraq (1991-2011, 2014-), Somalia (1992-1993, 2007-), Bosnia (1995), Saudi Arabia (1991, 1996), Afghanistan (1998, 2001-), Sudan (1998), Kosovo (1999), Yemen (2000, 2002-), Pakistan (2004-) and now Syria.) <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Nobel peace prize winner President Barak Obama, the hope of black and \u201cprogressive\u201d Americans whom Colonel Bacevich supported in his first election, bombed seven Muslim countries plus Muslim areas of Philippines. Obama was the fourth consecutive US president to bomb Iraq. Look up on the internet for a \u201clist of wars involving Spain.\u201d It should not be surprising that \u201cchickens come home to roost\u201d. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

(3) Fuengirola is said to have acquired its name after the Arabs were overthrown by Spanish Christians. Moors had called the town Sohail. The river flowing through the town, which empties into the Mediterranean, was once navigable and used especially by fishers. The hub of a boat is called a nave, as is the central passage of churches. The Spanish word for nave is \u201c<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>girola<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u201d. The Christians were mainly farmers and fishers and they went to church a lot. It became common to say that one went to fish on the river. The past tense of \u201cto go\u201d in Spanish is \u201c<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>fue<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u201d. So, one could say, \u201c<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>fue a girola<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u201d\u2014I navigated the river or: gone fishing.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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